| -- End Ad Box ---> | | | | should be necessary to undo the cuffs when putting |
| Bespoke shirt tailoring is undergoing a surge of | | | | on the shirt. |
| popularity in the UK as more men realise there are | | | | Aside from the fit of the shirt, there are a number |
| options beyond designer labels. Bespoke tailoring | | | | of other important features to keep an eye out for: |
| gives the opportunity to specify every aspect of | | | | * Fabrics - A bespoke mens shirt should only ever be |
| how a shirt is cut, and allows the wearer to | | | | constructed from pure cotton fabric. Cotton affords |
| experience the feel and look of a perfectly fitted | | | | the wearer far greater comfort than man made |
| shirt. The following is a guide on what features you | | | | fibres, and give a classic Jermyn Street look and feel |
| should expect from a quality bespoke made mens | | | | to a shirt. The count of the fabric should be as high |
| shirt. | | | | as possible - the higher the count, the finer the fabric. |
| Obviously, the main benefit of a bespoke shirt is that | | | | Popular fabric weaves include poplin (a plain weave |
| it fits the wearer perfectly; after all, the shirt has | | | | and the classic English shirting), twill (a heavier, |
| been made specifically for the wearer. Signs that a | | | | diagonal weave), fils-a-fils (a tiny graph paper check |
| shirt is fitted well are: | | | | that appears to be solid colour from a distance), and |
| * A bespoke mens shirt should not feel tight or | | | | oxford (generally, the heaviest weave). |
| appear baggy across the shoulders, chest, stomach, | | | | * Collars - The collar should be hand made, and can |
| or seat. The cut of the shirt should follow the | | | | be either fused or unfused. A well fused collar will |
| contours of the body, without being too close or | | | | give a smooth look with no puckering, and should use |
| restrictive a fit. A fabric allowance of about 6 inches | | | | cotton interfacing materials. Collars should have |
| on the chest body measurement, 5 inches on the | | | | removable bones to keep the shape of the wings |
| stomach measurement, and 6 inches on the seat | | | | perfectly straight when inserted. |
| measurement should give good results with average | | | | * Stitching - All stitching throughout the shirt should |
| body dimensions, although these allowances are | | | | be single-needle stitching. This technique is more |
| variable depending on the wearer's build. | | | | time-consuming than commercial methods, but gives |
| * The sleeves of the shirt should be long enough so | | | | strong seams that are significantly more |
| that the cuffs do not move up the arm when the | | | | pucker-resistant. |
| arms are raised above the head. Similarly, they should | | | | * Pattern matching - When using striped or patterned |
| not be so long that when the arms are hanging by | | | | fabrics, pattern matching should occur wherever |
| the side of the body, there is a significant excess of | | | | possible. |
| fabric on the sleeves near to the cuffs. | | | | * Sleeve plackets - Where the sleeves meet the |
| * The collar of the shirt should leave enough space | | | | cuffs, traditional packets should be used. Highest |
| to insert your thumb comfortably between the collar | | | | quality shirts do not provide placket buttons as these |
| and the neck when buttoned, and should not feel | | | | are uneccessary in a well formed placket. |
| tight or hang loose around the neck. | | | | * Split yoke - To ensure a perfect fit across the |
| * The length of the shirt should be long enough so | | | | shoulders, a split (4 piece) yoke should be used. |
| that the tails hang just below the seat when worn. | | | | * Buttons - These should be cross-stitched onto the |
| This will ensure that the shirt does not become | | | | shirt by hand to ensure that they do not become |
| untucked during use. | | | | loose over time. |
| * The cuffs of a bespoke mens shirt should be just | | | | * Tails - The tails of the shirt should be rounded and |
| too tight to slip over the hand when buttoned. It | | | | strengthened by a gusset. |