| The dress shirt, like most men's clothing items, has a | | | | men's shirt if you want to have an ongoing, intimate |
| lot less variety than women's clothing. Nevertheless, | | | | affair with an ironing board. |
| there is enough diversity that every man can create | | | | Silk, the strongest natural fiber, is just spectacular for |
| his own, personal style. You simply have to find the | | | | men's shirts or anything else -- warm, receptive to |
| shirt type and style that works best for you. | | | | dyes and soft against the skin like nothing else. |
| Fit | | | | Unfortunately, it fades easily if not dry cleaned, tends |
| Nothing ruins the look or comfort of a dress shirt | | | | to stretch out of shape and is the most expensive. |
| faster than a bad fit. A long sleeve shirt uses two | | | | Most men save it for ties or the most formal |
| numbers: neck and sleeve -- a 16/35 shirt means a | | | | occasion shirts. Silk blends (often with wool or |
| 16-inch circumference neck and 35-inch long sleeves. | | | | cotton) feature improved elasticity and affordability. |
| A short sleeve shirt is measured by collar alone, | | | | Care |
| often with an SS (as in 16SS or 16/SS) to designate | | | | The care tag on most dress shirts reads: Machine |
| short sleeves. Waist measurements aren't included | | | | wash cold. Tumble dry. Press with a warm iron. Do |
| because shirts have plenty of room for most men. | | | | not bleach. That tag is there to help you keep your |
| Neck measurements change in 0.5-inch increments, | | | | shirt looking good, so read it and do whatever it |
| sleeves usually in 2-inch increments. That's why they | | | | says. Some cottons must be ironed after every |
| are often marked 16/34-35. When measuring your | | | | wash to remove the wrinkles, but factory-treated |
| neck, look straight up, this old trick actually expands | | | | cottons are now available that need minimal, if any, |
| your neck to its fullest -- often boosting you up | | | | ironing. (Although, a quick touch-up is never out of |
| another size -- which means added comfort when | | | | order.) Don't be afraid to bleach white shirts; pick out |
| you aren't counting ceiling tiles. | | | | one of the new color-safe bleaches for colored and |
| To measure the sleeves, you'll need help. Place a | | | | patterned shirts. |
| tape measure at the base of the neck over the | | | | If the collar has removable stays, as most designer |
| spine, then lay it flat along the top of the back to | | | | shirts do, be sure to remove them before laundering |
| the shoulder. From the shoulder, move along the arm | | | | -- they will get lost if you don't. If you can afford it, |
| around the bent elbow to the point where the thumb | | | | nothing looks better than a professionally laundered |
| connects to the wrist. The total length (should be | | | | and pressed shirt. |
| very close to half your height) is your proper sleeve | | | | Terms |
| length. For a slightly fancier look, give it an extra inch. | | | | Relatively new to the market are a variety of |
| Men's dress shirts are made in three basic patterns: | | | | 100-percent cottons: |
| Regular-fit is the standard; it is cut full for best | | | | - '140 broadcloth' is the best, with high thread count |
| comfort. Big and tall shirts are designed 1.75 inches | | | | and close weave for superior performance. |
| longer than regular and a little wider (how much | | | | - '100 two-ply broadcloth' is also almost as good. |
| varies by manufacturer. Trim-fit (also called athletic-, | | | | - '80 pinpoint Oxford' is a durable two-ply with a |
| slim-, or tailored-fit) shirts are tapered in the chest | | | | more pronounced weave than broadcloth. |
| (about 5 inches less than regular) and waist (about 6 | | | | - '50 broadcloth' is single-ply and lightweight but still |
| inches less). | | | | durable. |
| Parts | | | | - 'No-Iron' or 'Easy-Care' shirts are available in oxford |
| A long sleeve shirt usually has a barrel cuff, also called | | | | or broadcloth and are wearable right out of the |
| a button cuff, which closes with a button. Actually, | | | | dryer. |
| two; if you wear a 35-inch sleeve and have 34-inch | | | | Price |
| arms, using the second button should bring the shirt | | | | You can spend $500 on a quality men's dress shirt, |
| length closer to what you need. French cuffs are the | | | | but you'd be wasting a lot of money. Any national |
| fold up variety that needs cuff links. Both are | | | | department store chain will have excellent shirts for |
| excellent for the office, evenings out or social | | | | $100 or less. If you buy from the clearance or |
| events. French cuffs are considered executive attire | | | | close-out rack, or wait for end-of-season sales or hit |
| and a more elegant fashion statement. Many French | | | | the discount outlets, you will save even more. (and |
| cuffs (and the collars that go with them) are white, | | | | you'll be the only one who knows!) |
| even on colored or patterned shirts, while a | | | | Questions and Answers |
| 'self-French' or 'self-button' cuff uses the same color | | | | When must I wear a white dress shirt? |
| or pattern. | | | | The short answer is, when everyone else wears |
| Collars come in three basic styles: The turn down | | | | them. It's a must with tuxedo or dinner jacket. A |
| collar is the standard. Length and width of the tips | | | | few companies still have strict dress codes; following |
| vary by manufacturer and ebb or flow with the tides | | | | them is a key to corporate acceptance and |
| of fashion. Usually, they have stays sewn in to keep | | | | advancement. Some men -- lawyers, bankers, |
| the shape. The button-down collar (erroneously called | | | | politicians and senior executives, for example -- are |
| an Oxford collar) has no stays -- buttons keep the | | | | silently expected to wear a pure white dress shirt or |
| tips in place. Collarless dress shirts are a growing | | | | one with a minimal pattern. You'll also see many of |
| trend. At present, collarless shirts are generally limited | | | | these gentlemen favoring French-cuffs, if you look |
| to formal wear or causal tops, not for the office. | | | | closely. That said, many companies and organizations |
| Fabrics | | | | have adopted very casual attire. Colored, striped, |
| There are several options available, some of which | | | | checked or other patterns on dress shirts are vastly |
| deserve little consideration. Like wool in men's suits, | | | | more popular (read: 'socially acceptable') than they |
| cotton is king of dress shirt fabrics. Though less | | | | were just a generation ago. |
| durable than man made fabrics, a cotton dress shirt | | | | What does business casual mean? |
| breathes, making it more comfortable to wear and, | | | | It doesn't mean wear your gym shorts to work |
| with proper care, cotton shirts always look better. | | | | (unless you work in a gym, of course). It means |
| Poplin | | | | jacket and tie optional; casual shirts, jeans or even |
| Originally a silk blend, modern poplins are usually 100 | | | | denim shirts may be acceptable. This makes the |
| percent cotton. Smoother than Oxford, lighter than | | | | dress shirt a key to your style and look, if you |
| broadcloth, it is the most-often-used fabric for dress | | | | choose to wear it to work. A dress shirt that fits |
| shirts and formal wear. Poplins do vary in weight, | | | | well, looks good and stands out from the crowd a |
| summer weights being very light and somewhat | | | | little can be valuable. After all, regardless of how |
| translucent; winter weights being heavier, but still thin | | | | good you are, if you are more noticeable, you are |
| compared to other weaves. | | | | more promote-able. |
| Oxford | | | | What about pockets and monograms? |
| Among the most popular dress shirt fabrics; Oxford | | | | Dress shirts generally have one pocket, over the left |
| is a softer, heavier cloth with a larger weave. Most | | | | breast; a few sport two or none, a few pockets |
| have button-down collars -- it's a trademark. Oxford | | | | have button-down flaps. Pockets are not there to |
| cloth shirts, all-cotton or cotton-blend, are very | | | | use as a trunk or filing cabinet. Glasses, a pen or two, |
| appropriate for business and casual wear in long | | | | a few business cards or a name tag are all they can |
| sleeve or short. Pinpoint Oxfords, pinpoints for short, | | | | handle without detracting from the great look you |
| is a lighter, smoother material. | | | | are working so hard to achieve. Monograms are |
| Twill | | | | embroidered initials; some fashionistas say they must |
| Heavier than poplin or pinpoint; lighter than broadcloth | | | | be just above the cuff of the right sleeve, others |
| or Oxford; with a distinctive diagonal weave (including | | | | say they should be seen only atop the breast |
| the famous herringbone twill) similar to Oxford. | | | | pocket. Most people think monograms are a waste |
| All-cotton or cotton-blend twills make great dress and | | | | of money. |
| casual shirts. | | | | The best? |
| Broadcloth | | | | It is a good idea to buy one dress shirt -- white, |
| Originally a woven wool, the heaviest common shirt | | | | poplin, French cuffs, the whole nine yards. This shirt is |
| fabric has also switched to cotton. Broadcloth can be | | | | to be worn only for weddings, funerals, court |
| smooth as poplin or have a twilled, almost ribbed | | | | appearances, IRS audits and other serious occasions. |
| texture. Weights do vary, as do weaves and | | | | Laundered professionally and pressed after every |
| textures. Broadcloth is a durable fabric for casual, | | | | use, it is kept in a protective bag after each wearing. |
| dress and formal shirts. | | | | The rest? |
| Other materials | | | | Now that you have new dress shirts, you may need |
| Man-made fibers (polyester, rayon, dacron, etc.) are | | | | a new suit to go with. Every man needs on good |
| very sturdy and very economical, but these | | | | wool-flannel or wool-gabardine suit in black or gray |
| petroleum based long-chain polymers don't breath | | | | (for the above named occasions) which you treat |
| well. They can be excellent imitations of natural fibers | | | | with the same care as that best shirt. You'll also need |
| or they can look bad and feel awful. Blends with | | | | black dress shoes, black leather belt and a silk tie |
| cotton, wool or other fabrics combine the strength | | | | pocket hanky set with a conservative pattern or |
| of man-made with the comfort and appearance of | | | | stripe. This is the one where you buy the finest you |
| naturals. | | | | can afford and don't look back -- when you wear this |
| Linen is a classic which looks good and makes a great | | | | ensemble, you really do look spectacular. |